Review of the Rocky Mountaineer: Banff to Vancouver

The Rocky Mountaineer: Two Day Train Trip from Banff to Vancouver Via Rail

Traveling via train alludes to a bygone era when train travel took travelers long distances, providing them with wonderful service along the way.  While we have many, faster travel options nowadays, choosing to travel by rail is an exciting experience.  Not only do you see beautiful scenery as you roll along the tracks, more so than you would by car or by plane, but the service on this particular train trip is impeccable.  We had an incredible journey on the Rocky Mountaineer and can’t wait to share all about this amazing trip!

ABOUT THE ROCKY MOUNTAINEER

The Rocky Mountaineer offers train trips in Western Canada as well as the American Southwest.  The trains only travel during the day, so you never have to worry about missing the spectacular scenery.  Multi-day train trips include overnight stays in hotels so that you get the best rest possible.  

The Rocky Mountaineer company began in 1990 in the Canadian Rockies.  By the late 1990s, it had already set the record for the longest passenger train at 41 cars!  It catered to tourists in western Canada, taking them through some of the most majestic areas of the Canadian Rockies.  In 2021, the Rocky Mountaineer expanded service into the United States, offering a train trip within the American southwest.  

Current Routes

Currently, the Rocky Mountaineer operates over a six month season.  Routes are as follows:

  • In Canada:
    • First Passage to the West:  Banff to Vancouver or Vancouver to Banff with an overnight stay in Kamloops.
    • Journey through the Clouds:  Jasper to Vancouver or Vancouver to Jasper with an overnight stay in Kamloops.
    • Rainforest to Gold Rush:  Jasper to Vancouver or Vancouver to Jasper with two overnight stays, one in Quesnel and one in Whistler.
  • In the United States:
    • Rockies to the Red Rocks:  Denver, Colorado to Moab Utah or Moab, Utah to Denver, Colorado with an overnight stay in Glenwood Springs.

Service Classes

There are two types of service classes on the Rocky Mountaineer:

  • Gold Leaf:  Ride in style in bi-level glass domed coaches.  You have an assigned seat on the second level of the train car with the dining car on the first level.  The dining menu offers many options for each meal.
  • Silver Leaf:  Ride comfortably in a single level car where meals and drinks are brought to your seat during the journey.  The dining menu provides good options, however not as extensive as the Gold Leaf service.

When we went

September 2024.  We stayed in Banff for four days before our train trip on the Rocky Mountaineer.  This was a great time to visit the area.  Temperatures were in the 40s in the mornings, getting up to 60s-70s during the day.  We had clear blue skies with ample sunshine.

OUR ITINERARY

We were on the First Passage to the West, which took us from Banff to Vancouver with an overnight in Kamloops.  We also opted for the Gold Leaf experience.

Below is our full itinerary, to share how we planned one week in the Canadian Rockies along with the Rocky Mountaineer train journey:

  • Day 1:  Arrive in Calgary – pick up rental car, drive 80 miles west to Banff.  Overnight in Banff.
  • Day 2:  Visit Lake Louise in Banff National Park.  Overnight in Banff.
  • Day 3:  Visit Moraine Lake in Banff National Park.  Overnight in Banff.
  • Day 4:  Drive the Icefields Parkway up to the Columbia Icefield in Jasper National Park.  Overnight in Banff.
  • Day 5:  Rocky Mountaineer train journey.  Overnight at the halfway point in the town of Kamloops.
  • Day 6:  Rocky Mountaineer train journey.  Overnight in Vancouver.
  • Day 7:  Overnight in Vancouver.

OUR ROCKY MOUNTAINEER EXPERIENCE 

Booking and Pre-Departure

We booked our train journey several months out, choosing the First Passage to the West (taking us from Banff to Vancouver) and opting for the Gold Leaf experience.  We then built the rest of the trip around the train journey, with four days in Banff prior to the train trip, followed by two nights in Vancouver afterwards. 

A few days before departure, you are reminded via email to check in and pick up luggage tags in person.  There are several locations to do so in Banff.  The easiest is the Rocky Mountaineer office in the Bear Creek Mall.  The hotels also have check in areas however their hours are much more limited.  We were always gone during the hours the Rocky Mountaineer booth was open at our hotel, so the office in the Bear Creek Mall was most convenient.

The location of our hotel, pick up location for the Rocky Mountaineer shuttle to the train station, and the Bear Creek Mall | Banff Avenue – Banff, Alberta, Canada

See above for our full itinerary while in the Canadian Rockies.  Below is our two day train experience.

Pick Up and Boarding

On departure day, the shuttle bus picked us up right at our hotel, the Moose Hotel & Suites on Banff Avenue in Banff.  We were to meet in the lobby for pick up at 7:00 a.m. and were told breakfast would be at 8:00 a.m. on the train.  We, along with many others, all met in the lobby, luggage in hand.  Our names were checked off a list and we brought our bags out to be loaded into the bus.  We then got seated on the bus.  Once everyone at our hotel was on board, we scooted up a few hundred feet to the hotel next door, The Ptarmigan, hotel to pick up more people.  Again, after all the people were loaded, the bus scooted up a few hundred feet and loaded more bags and folks on at the next hotel, Elk + Avenue.  It is very convenient for anyone that has mobility issues or wants the ease of being picked up at their hotel.  However, Mike and I had a laugh because it seemed we could have all converged at one pick up spot as all of the hotels were all in a row, right next to one another!

At the last hotel, we waited for a long time.  Apparently, there was an issue the night before with a different train which caused delays for today.  Our shuttle bus was overbooked by two people so a small shuttle was on the way to pick them up.  Because of this, we all had to wait until the second shuttle came.  It was after 8:00 a.m. when we finally headed to the train station.

Shortly thereafter, we arrived at the Banff train station.  We had our train car and seat assignments in hand.  We then boarded our train car, heading upstairs to our seats.  Our seats were similar to domestic first class or business class with ample space, a foot rest, and a new edition of the Rocky Mountaineer Mile Post in our seat back pocket.

The bi-level domed car, Gold Leaf Service | Rocky Mountaineer

All Aboard

Once on board, our crew welcomed us and introduced themselves while explaining the process of the train journey that would take place over the next two days.  We had over 50 people in our car and the dining room held around 30 people, which meant our meals would be split into two groups, the first seating and the second seating.  We were near the front of the train and our half of the car was in the second seating on day one.

At this point, we were very hungry and very ready for coffee.  We had been delayed departing our hotel and now were in the second seating.  However, the crew announced that once the first seating folks headed down for breakfast, the rest of us would be served coffee and a breakfast cake at our seats to hold us over until it was our turn to dine.  By the time we were served it was about 9:00 a.m.  

The Dining Experience

With Gold Leaf Service, breakfast and lunch were served in the dining car below.  And as stated above, our car was divided into two seatings.  

At around 10:30 a.m., the first seaters had returned to their seats and the dining room was ready for those of us in the second seating.  The crew walked up the aisle dismissing everyone by row and saying, “We would like to invite you to breakfast!”  

The set up for all the meals | The Rocky Mountaineer

We were seated at a table for four and a couple from Denmark joined us.  We ordered  coffee to start while taking a look at the nice selection of breakfast options.  A pastry was brought out to start followed by the main course ordered from the menu. 

Both Mike and I ordered the skillet, a delicious blend of peppers, onions, sausage, and topped with an egg cooked any way you like it.  It was delicious!

Our delicious breakfast skillet | The Rocky Mountaineer

The first seating for lunch was at 12:35 p.m. with the second seating following at about 1:45 p.m.  While the first seaters were in the dining car, the beverage cart again rolled down the aisles, and we were offered a variety of drinks along with sweet or savory nuts.  When it was our turn for lunch, we were once again kindly invited down to the dining car.  Once seated, we ordered off the menu.  Some of the items offered were Dungeness Crab Ravioli as well as Pork, Beef, and Chicken dishes.  Dessert was a Chocolate Torte or Lemon Lavender Posset.  Let me tell you, the torte was divine!  The rich chocolate base was topped with a creamy chocolate ganache with toasted coconut and a touch of sea salt…yum!

The chocolate torte after lunch | The Rocky Mountaineer

All meals onboard are created using local ingredients when possible and lunch includes wine service with local Canadian wines.

In the evening, at about 7:30 p.m., drinks were served as well as plated cannelloni while at our seats.  It was a nice late night “snack”, as they called it, however we called it dinner!

Our evening meal of cannelloni paired with Canadian wine | The Rocky Mountaineer

On the second evening, before we were due to pull in to Vancouver, we were brought another delicious evening meal to our seats, this time it was chicken, cornbread, and a corn and bean salad and it was scrumptious!

During our train journey, Mike mentioned that he would not need bread or pastries as he is gluten free.  The crew would not hear of simply just not bringing him something!  They creatively figured out a special appetizer for him throughout the trip, going above and beyond accommodating his dietary restrictions!  This is just another example of the incredible service of the Rocky Mountaineer crew. 

Mike’s gluten-free goodness! | The Rocky Mountaineer

The Vestibule – Getting Out Into the Fresh Air

After our meals, we always headed out to the vestibule to spend some time out in the fresh air.  The vestibule is located in the front of the dining car and is a great place to watch the world zoom by! 

The Vestibule | The Rocky Mountaineer

We spent a lot of time in the outdoor vestibule, as the weather was great for being outside.  Definitely bring layers, though, as there were times it was quite chilly!

Each car has its own vestibule | The Rocky Mountaineer

Spending Time in the Seats

After spending time outside, returning to our seats for some reading, beverages, and watching the variety of landscapes from the large windows was a great way to pass the time.   

Some of the beautiful scenery as seen from our seats | The Rocky Mountaineer

We passed rushing rivers, dense forests, mountains, and saw lots of wildlife.  We saw numerous bald eagles in the area known as “Eagle Valley”, plus black bear, and mountain goats!    

Off the Train in Kamloops

As previously stated, you don’t sleep on the train, rather you are brought to a hotel in the town of Kamloops.  Logistically, it was the easiest experience!  The train crew passed out keys to our hotel rooms shortly before arrival so we could just go directly to the room.  Our train car was led to our specific shuttle bus that took us to the hotel.  After a quick shuttle bus ride from the Kamloops train station to the hotel, we headed to our room where our luggage was waiting for us.  What an easy process!

After a long day of train travel, we were ready for some shut-eye.  What an absolutely incredible first day!

Kamloops to Vancouver 

Morning came quick and we were to get on the shuttle bus at 8:00 am.  Once again, we left our luggage in the room as it would be waiting for us at our final destination.  

We got on our shuttle bus, said hello to all our “train friends” from yesterday, feeling refreshed from the great night’s sleep.  Once we arrived at the train station, our train car’s crew were all standing outside waving us in.  It was like seeing old friends!  We all happily embarked for day two of the journey.

Today, our half of the train car was in the first seating, so very quickly after departing the Kamloops station we were invited down to breakfast.  It was the same menu as the day before and we opted for the same breakfast:  skillet of sausage, potatoes, and peppers topped with an egg any way you like it.  After devouring this delicious meal, lots of coffee, and maybe a mimosa, we headed out onto the vestibule for fresh air and beautiful scenery rolling by.

The rest of Day 2 was very similar to Day 1.  When seated, you are constantly offered drinks, occasionally snacks, and have lots of time to talking, reading, and watching the scenery. 

More of the incredible terrain in Western Canada | The Rocky Mountaineer

As we rolled into Vancouver, we had some delays due to other trains on the track ahead.  Once we finally pulled in to the Vancouver Station, our journey was done.  We said our farewells to our amazing crew and fellow train companions, found our luggage, and took an taxi to our hotel.

NOTE:  If you stay at any of the Rocky Mountaineer’s hotels, you will be transported right from the train station to your hotel, again with your luggage waiting in the room for you.  We stayed at the Fairmont Vancouver Airport Hotel, which was out of their drop zone.  We picked up our luggage, which was all nicely loaded on a cart at the train station, and headed out to the taxi stand to get a ride to our hotel.  Our awesome train journey was over!

A Story About Connections:

As we approached the town of Canoe, our guide, Harrison, shared a story: 

A lady by the name of Doris would go out onto her porch that faced the train tracks every day to wave at the train passing by.  She would run out regardless of what she was doing, sometimes even with a towel on her head having just raced out of the shower!  She waved big as the entire train passed by, giving the train passengers a smile as her enthusiasm was contagious.  Day after day, and then year after year, she would always be perched on her porch waving as the Rocky Mountaineer passed by. 

The Rocky Mountaineer did a documentary and invited her to participate as her appearance became a consistent part of their story.  They met her in her home and sat down for an interview with her.  One thing the crew was curious about is how she always knew what time the train would pass by.  She attributed this to her dog, as he always alerted her when the Rocky Mountaineer was about to pass by.  

As part of the documentary, she was invited on board the train, where she got to finally experience it as a passenger.  One concern of hers, though, was that no one would be on her porch to wave as the Rocky Mountaineer passed by!  As a special surprise, the Rocky Mountaineer team commissioned her friends and family to be ready on her porch, and to wave big as the train passed by!  Doris got a big, unexpected wave from friends and family as a now passenger on the Rocky Mountaineer herself!

Sure, the Rocky Mountaineer connects people from Point A to Point B as they travel from one destination to the next.  But even more importantly, it connects people to people.  Making new friends as you dine together, hearing interesting stories from your crew, and learning of the amazing connections that the Rocky Mountaineer has to people passing by reiterated how important connections are when we travel.  Almost every time we passed cars at train crossings and homes with people outside, they enthusiastically waved and we all waved back.  Human connection is what brings the world together after all. 

As we passed through Canoe, guess who was on her porch waving big for the Rocky Mountaineer passing by?  Doris!  We all waved and wished she could have heard our cheers as we railed past.  It was definitely a fabulous story of human connection.  In this digital age that we all live in today, human connection is more important than ever and the Rocky Mountaineer delivered many connections during this amazing journey!

OVERALL THOUGHTS

Traveling on the Rocky Mountaineer is one of our best travel experiences to date.  The crew was phenomenal, with great stories and anecdotes, always making sure our needs were met, and they really made the journey an amazing one.

The scenery is unbelievable as you are traversing some of the world’s most beautiful areas.  From the mountains of Banff to the rushing rivers of western Canada, to the coastal town of Vancouver, you get to see these places in a way you cannot when self-driving or flying.  

We highly recommend this trip, in fact we cannot wait to do it again, maybe trying a different route in the future.  Logistically, it could not have been easier as Rocky Mountaineer’s service is top notch.  All your needs are met, from the initial pick up to the final drop off.  Go ahead, book the trip, it’s sure to be one of your best travel memories!

Things to Know Before You Go

  • You must have your passport if coming from outside Canada.
  • Definitely bring a camera.  You’ll be traveling through some of the world’s most beautiful scenery.
  • Luggage is not able to be accessed while on the train.  It will be in your room at your hotel and then you leave it again in the room when departing.  It will also be at your final destination in Vancouver.  You can have a small bag or backpack to keep important items with you during the train ride.  I had a tote bag and Mike had a backpack, which comfortably fit at our feet.
  • Dress in layers.  At times we felt warm in the train car and other times we were chilly, especially when we stepped out onto the vestibule.
  • There is no wi-fi.  You are unplugged however that is what this train journey is all about!  Enjoying the scenery going by and all the connections you’re sure to make.

Read more!

Leave a Reply