Lake Clark National Park: Day Trip to the Proenneke Cabin

Lake Clark National Park is one of the most remote national parks in the U.S. National Park system. The park protects the deepest lake in Alaska, Lake Clark, as it is the world’s largest sockeye salmon fishery. The area also has cultural significance to the Dena’ina people, as it is their ancestral homeland. Lake Clark is an area of rugged beauty in southwestern Alaska.

While in Lark Clark National Park, we had a planned day trip to visit the Twin Lakes area of Lake Clark. These two glacial lakes, Upper and Lower Twin Lakes, are gorgeous with their bright turquoise blue water and pine forests lining the rocky coast. One of the best things to do in this beautiful area is to visit Dick Proenneke’s cabin which sits on Upper Twin Lake.

LAKE CLARK NATIONAL PARK FACTS

Lake Clark is the deepest lake in Alaska

LOCATION: Alaska
CLOSEST CITY: Anchorage, AK (120 air miles)
ANNUAL VISITORS: 18,500
60th most visited national park (out of 63)
BECAME A NATIONAL PARK: 1980
TOP THINGS TO SEE & DO: Kayak Lake Clark and visit the Historic Proenneke Cabin

About The Historic Proenneke Cabin

In the spring of 1960, Dick Proenneke began building a small cabin on Upper Twin Lake in the area now known as Lake Clark National Park. He documented his first year here in a journal complete with photos of himself building the cabin in various stages. Dick also built a shed with an attached outhouse as well as a tall cache for storing food. Built completely with hand tools, many of which Dick himself created himself, the cabin exemplifies his incredible craftsmanship and desire for wilderness preservation. His grit and fortitude to build this peaceful place to reside in solitude is very inspiring!

The historic Proenneke cabin | Lake Clark National Park

When Dick was in his 80s, he finally left his cabin after 30 years to live in California with his brother. He donated his cabin and most of his belongings to Lake Clark National Park. The cabin has been maintained by the national park service ever since.

Both Mike and I read the book based on Dick’s journals, “One Man’s Wilderness” and have also watched the documentary based on Dick’s time here. Visiting his cabin was the top of our list of things to do in Lake Clark National Park!

How to get to the Historic Proenneke Cabin

The only way to arrive to this remote part of Alaska is via a small float plane that lands on Upper Twin Lake, the location of Dick’s cabin.

Our float plane parked just feet from Dick’s Cabin | Lake Clark National Park

We stayed at the Lake Clark Resort in Port Alsworth during our visit to Lake Clark National Park which is located just a short 25 minute float plane ride away from Twin Lakes. Lake Clark Resort offers a variety of day trips in the area, including one to the historic Proenneke cabin. Booking this day trip through the resort was seamless. They provided the plane and pilot, a sack lunch, and brought us to this remote location within Lake Clark National Park for an epic day trip.

OUR EXPERIENCE VISITING DICK PROENNEKE’S CABIN

Our day trip to Twin Lakes almost didn’t go off due to weather, which is a common occurrence in this part of Alaska. While we ate breakfast, we watched through the windows as the wind whipped through the trees and fog continued to roll in. As employees of the resort bopped around alerting people of their day trips – some were cancelled and some were going to try to go out depending on their destination – we waited our turn to hear the fate of our day.

We were thrilled when we were told to pack up as we were to leave for our day trip at 8:45 am. With gear in tow, we were ready!

Another couple staying at the lodge joined us along with our pilot for our trip out to Twin Lakes. For about 25 minutes we bounced above Lake Clark, the Chigmit Mountains, and soon approached Twin Lakes.

Flying to Upper Twin Lake | Lark Clark National Park

Our float plane glided in to Upper Twin Lake, landing just feet from Dick’s Cabin…we arrived!

Landing on Upper Twin Lake | Lake Clark National Park

The Historic Proenneke Cabin

As we walked from the float plane up to the pathway to the cabin, we passed the rocky dam crafted by Dick himself, complete with antlers on top.

In front of the Proenneke cabin | Lark Clark Resort

As we approached the cabin, walking up a short gravel trail from the shore, a park ranger was on site ready to share a wealth of information with us.

A short gravel path leads from the shore up to the cabin | Lake Clark National Park

When the ranger talk was complete we took turns walking through the cabin. The gravel floor gave way to our shoes as we walked around inside taking it all in. Seeing Dick’s bed complete with his “guest bed” (a top bunk!), the beautiful fireplace along the back wall, and the desk lit with natural light where he sat to write in his journals touched us deeply.

Inside the cabin | Lake Clark National Park

Both Mike and I had read his book and watched his documentary multiple times. To experience his place first hand was an amazing experience!

We also walked around the cabin, checking out his food cache as well as the shed and attached outhouse. Visiting on a chilly September day one has to wonder how the walk to the outhouse was in the winter months!

The shed and outhouse; the food cache | Lark Clark National Park

The cabin is the ultimate in solitude. Quiet and peaceful in one of the most gorgeous natural areas makes for a wonderful place to reside. No wonder he stayed here for 30 years! He had everything he needed, a simple life within nature.

More views of Dick’s cabin | Lake Clark National Park

Spike’s Cabin

Just a short distance from Dick’s cabin is “Spike’s Cabin”.

Walking along the shore to see Spike’s Cabin | Lake Clark National Park

Spike was a friend of Dick’s and this is where Dick stayed while building his own cabin. We walked for just a few minutes along the gravelly shore to reach it. We checked it out quickly as from here our group was heading up for our hike to Teetering Rock.

Hike to Teetering Rock

After the cabin visit our guide hiked our small group up the trail to Teetering Rock, an uphill, half-mile climb up to a rock that does in fact teeter, as our guide showed us! As we climbed up the hill, the views behind us of Upper Twin Lake were gorgeous.

The path from Dick’s cabin up to Teetering Rock | Lark Clark National Clark

The hike gives way to panoramic views of Upper Twin Lake from Teetering Rock.

Views during the hike up to Teetering Rock | Lake Clark National Park

On the way back down, the trail is almost all downhill with a few flat areas, so definitely wear proper footwear if you plan do to the hike. The trail also runs next to Hope Creek, a beautiful rushing river also referenced by Dick in his journals.

Hope Creek | Lake Clark National Park

The Trip Back to Port Alsworth

Normally during this tour from Lake Clark Lodge, you sit on the gravel beach in front of Dick’s cabin and eat the sack lunch provided from the resort. However, our trip was cut short due to the weather churning up again. Our group hustled back into the plane for another beautiful ride back to Lake Clark Resort in Port Alsworth.

Our float plane, ready to pick us up | Lake Clark National Park

As we ascended over Upper Twin Lake I looked down at the homestead Dick built and felt a sense of gratefulness for this awesome experience.

As the float plane landed in the bay right in front of Lake Resort, waves picked up and the weather became windy and rainy again. We were grateful to have been able to take the trip during the calm pocket of weather on this day!

Things to Know Before You Go:

Wear insect repellant as the bugs can get bad in this area, especially in the summer months. In June and July, especially, consider a head net, like this one.
Bring water, especially if hiking to Teetering Rock.
The only way to visit this area is via a small float plane. I wasn’t sure how I would do on the float plane but I actually found it to be a great experience! The plane ride takes you over some of the most breathtakingly beautiful scenery and landing in the water is fun! If you get motion sickness, however, consider taking something beforehand as you do feel a lot of bouncing in this small aircraft.
The weather here changes quickly and these float planes cannot depart if the visibility is low or winds are high. Having a few days to play with work best to ensure you get to do the day trip.
Have cash on hand to tip your pilot!