One Great Day: Day Trip to the Valley of 10,000 Smokes
The Valley of 10,000 Smokes makes for a great day trip in Katmai National Park. As the site of the 1912 Novarupta volcanic eruption, today we can witness this “living laboratory”, by hiking to get close up views of the walls of ash and view the vast landscape. We had a beautiful day in the Valley of 10,000 Smokes and share our full experience in this guide.
About the Valley of 10,000 Smokes
The area of the Valley of 10,000 Smokes sits on one of the world’s most active volcanic areas, the Pacific Ring of Fire. The Novarupta Volcano’s eruption caused a dramatic landscape change that we can still see the effects of today.
The Eruption
The once tree-filled verdant green landscape was suddenly forever altered in 1912. For weeks prior, earthquakes occurred signaling that something major was about to happen. Then, on June 6, 1912, the largest volcanic eruption of the 20th century transpired as the Novarupta Volcano erupted . For days after, the sky was darkened due to the ash, gas, and pumice in the air. This once lush landscape was now buried under 700 feet of volcanic ash. The effects of the eruption were seen and felt thousands of mile away.
What’s in a Name?
Scientist Robert Griggs explored the area post volcanic eruption. He noticed how there were countless fumaroles still smoking. He was said to have remarked, “The whole valley…was full of hundreds, no thousands – literally tens of thousands – of smokes curling up from its fissured floor”. The description was so remarkable that the area became known as the Valley of 10,000 Smokes!
The Valley of 10,000 Smokes Today
This area was declared a national monument in 1918 to preserve the after effects of the 1912 volcanic eruption. The area continues to give insight into volcanoes, allowing for continuous study. Over time, the protection of brown bears in the area became equally critical thus the creation of Katmai National Park and Preserve was officially formed in 1980.
When looking at the landscape today, it looks entirely different than it was before 1912. The Ukak River carves deep gorges in the landscape, a rushing river next to dry volcanic ash. The massive walls of golden ash and pumice can been seen up close down by Ukak Falls. A beautiful, dramatic landscape looks like that of another planet at the Confluence. The Valley of 10,000 Smokes is an incredible place to witness the magnificent power of Planet Earth.
KATMAI NATIONAL PARK FACTS
Katmai is the habitat for one of the world’s largest concentration of brown bears
- LOCATION: Alaska
- CLOSEST CITY: King Salmon, AK
- ANNUAL VISITORS: 36,000
- 57th most visited U.S. National Park (out of 63)
- BECAME A NATIONAL PARK: 1980
- TOP THINGS TO SEE & DO: View the brown bears & visit the Valley of 10,000 Smokes
Our Experience
We met our group at the end of the bridge at Brooks Camp at 8:45 a.m. Normally, a bus takes you out to the Valley of 10,000 Smokes but on the day we did the tour the bus was being serviced. Instead, our group had two vans driving us out the 23 mile journey to the Valley of 10,000 Smokes.
The vans
The ride took us about two hours to traverse the 23 miles from Brooks Camp to the ranger station atop the valley.
Stops Along the Way
Along the way, we stopped at three different locations, where the ranger shared information on the area.
The first stop was Research Point, where we saw low bush berries, a great food for bear (and humans!)
The first stop of the day
In the early morning hours on the day we visited, the berries had a slight frost on them, which the ranger said made them extra tasty. It was, in fact, a crisp, sour snack!
Frosty cranberries…a delicious snack!
This is also the location of pit toilets, your last chance for a restroom break until the ranger station at the Valley of 10,000 Smokes.
Next, we stopped at Kettle Ponds Overlook, with great views out to the valley below. This area is still lush and green, a great habitat for moose and bear.
Kettle Ponds Overlook
Along the way you also make three river crossings, with the third and final the most dramatic.
One of three river crossings
It’s quite the journey to get to the Valley of 10,000 Smokes!
Arrival at the Ranger Station
Once we arrived at the ranger station at the Valley of 10,000 Smokes, we headed out to the back deck, where we took in the vast views. While out here, the park ranger gave a fantastic history lesson on the eruption.
After the talk, we headed inside and enjoyed our lunch, prepared by Brooks Lodge. The lunch consisted of a sandwich, fruit, and chips with water, coffee, tea, and cider available as well. When everyone was done eating, all but one person in the group headed out for a guided hike down to the falls.
The Falls
The hike took us on a narrow trail through high grasses. The ranger said there is evidence bear live here, although they have not seen one while in the area. We were glad our ranger led the hike with bear spray in his holster!
Much of the trail looks like this
We continued on the downhill trail, arriving at Ukak Falls. The falls are the beautiful result of the Ukak River pushing through the valley of ash and pumice.
The Falls
Along the river are high walls of ash, a direct result from the eruption. Down here you really get a fantastic visual perspective on how deep the ash is.
The massive walls of ash
From here, we hiked back up and took a left at the sign to reach the confluence.
Trail sign marking the Falls and the Confluence
The Confluence
Just a short jaunt down the Confluence Trail brings you to a vast view of the valley. The golden ash walls and merging of the Knife River and Windy Creek create a spectacular scene.
Above photo: The Confluence of the two rivers is visible; Bottom photo: A beautiful scene
While here, be sure to check out the remnants of fumaroles!
Remnants of fumaroles
These many fumaroles were once smoking, helping to give the valley its name – The Valley of 10,000 Smokes!
After visiting the falls and the confluence, we hiked the narrow trail through thick grasses back to the ranger station. The hike back is all uphill. There are sections of stairs in some areas, although most is on a dirt trail.
The Ranger Station
Back at the ranger station, while waiting for the full group to reassemble, we checked out the placards and diorama inside. There was a good amount of information to read through while waiting.
Views from the back deck of the ranger station
Overall, this is a fantastic day trip. It is so different than the woods, river, and bears back at Brooks Camp. If you have multiple days in the area we highly recommend doing this day trip. Brooks Lodge made it easy, providing the transportation, lunch, and guides for this informative trip to the area. After all, this is what got Katmai started as a national park in the first place so to learn of its origins is quite remarkable.
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
- The distance of the entire hike is about 3.4 miles with about 1000 feet of elevation change. On the way to the confluence and the falls the trail heads down, which feels relatively easy. However, there were a few areas were it was a little slippery. Consider taking along trekking poles because of this. The hike is rated “moderate” by the national park service. I think this is accurate as the hike back to the ranger station is all uphill. There were a few folks with mobility issues and they opted to take a slow stroll to the confluence only while the rest of us went all the way down to the falls, then the conflunce. They arrived back at the ranger station at almost the same time we did. Know your limits and don’t push yourself! Someone even stayed behind the whole time.
- The tour takes approximately 7 hours, so plan a full day for this. If staying at Brooks Lodge it is easy to do. Simply board the bus (or vans) at the end of the bridge at Brooks Camp. If you are doing a day trip to Brooks, this could be tight. Our group arrived back at Brooks Camp before 3:30, however it all depends on your group. Our group had relatively fast hikers, so we were all back at the ranger station ready to board our vans at 2:45. The guides and ranger remarked at how early this was as it is typically much later. If you have a flight departing Brooks the same day as the tour, be sure to alert the guides and ranger so they can do their best to get you back on time.
- Do not bring extra food with you in your backpack on the hikes. You will have lunch at the ranger station just before the hike. However, it is bear country so having food on you during the hike could be potentially dangerous. If you must have food with you be sure to have it in a bear safe container.
- Pit toilets are on site at the ranger station as well as about the halfway mark between Brooks Camp and the ranger station at the Valley of 10,000 Smokes. At this halfway point, the vans (or bus) stops to let everyone off to stretch their legs and have a bathroom break.
- Plan for inclement weather. We were very lucky in that we had comfortable temperatures and no rain during our mid-September visit. We heard that it can be quite rainy in this area, however, so come prepared. Having a waterproof cover for your backpack, waterproof hiking shoes, and a rain jacket will be a lot more comfortable than rain soaked clothes.
- To book this tour, click here: Valley of 10,000 Smokes Tour from Brooks Lodge.
When recreating in the great outdoors, be sure to follow the seven guiding principles of LEAVE NO TRACE: Plan & Prepare | Travel & Camp on Durable Surfaces | Dispose of Waste Properly | Leave What You Find | Minimize Campfire Impact | Respect Wildlife | Be Considerate of Others
OUR PACKING LIST
Here is our packing list for Katmai National Park:
- Our go-to hiking backpacks are Osprey brand. They are very lightweight and comfortable and carry all our essentials. You can find the backpacks in a variety of colors and capacities.
- Camelback water reservoirs are a must when hiking longer distances.
- I really like these Black Diamond trekking poles. These fold up and are lightweight, especially great for packing when traveling and taking along on hikes.
- Mosquito headnets are recommended, especially in the summer months.
- No hike should be without a mini first aid kit!
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